Thursday, May 24, 2012


Mountain Echoes 2012
Day 4
23rd May, 2012

The last day of sessions at Mountain Echoes packed in textile narratives, poetry, political boundaries and the stories planted at every step of a mountain path.
The morning began with HM Ashi Sangay Choden Wangchuck’s address on how narratives get woven into textiles and our lives, and of Bhutan’s vibrant culture of textiles and arts. She spoke of how weaving in Bhutan is a form of oral history passed on from mother to daughter and keeps every generation in touch with the past. This preservation of traditions is the underlying concept behind the living museum of textiles in Bhutan that facilitates the revival of lost pattern motifs. The Royal Academy of textiles plans to provide training for a career in textiles.

This led to a session with Laila Tyabji and members and curators from the Bhutanese textile museum and the royal textile academy. They discussed how textiles fit into a literary session and form a text in themselves, telling the story of a culture and an individual. The panelists talked of how like in India, in the Rig Veda and the Upanishads the universe is imagined as a cloth woven by god, in Bhutan too there is a lot of mythology around weaving as a creative life giving force. They also discussed the incorporation of the younger generation into weaving, the evolution of the national dress, the Kira, regional variations in weaving and wearing styles of the traditional costume, the economic effects of weaving and how traditionally weavers were considered producers of wealth.

The session was wrapped up by Kuenga who sang a beautiful song about a textile that comes from a particular region asking people to wear the textiles and show them off instead of letting them rot in the cupboard.
This fascinating discussion gave way to a poetic dialogue starting with Gulzar reciting his famous and fitting poem Julaha or the weaver and Pavan Varma reading the English translation. The two of them talked to Sukrita Paul about their poetry and about a certain conversation amongst cultures that is only possible through translation. Pavan Varma spoke of how he translated Gulzar’s poetry and struggled with maintaining the sounds that are specific to a language and why an anthology of Gulzar’s poetry that he was translating came to be titled as ‘Neglected Poems’. They spoke of how translations are like a mistress – if they are faithful they aren’t beautiful if they are beautiful they aren’t faithful.





After scaling the worlds of fabric and poetry, it was time to touch upon the magnificent surroundings that is the Himalayas, the spiritual repositories and home to stories of gods and demons. Patrick French introduced Steven Alter and Karma Singye Dorji, both of whom have grown up in the mountains and have a strong sense of attachment for them. Steven Alter said that while his family has been in India for four generations, and their ancestral home is in the US, whenever asked, he says that he is from the Himalayas, because they go beyond political borders.

Karma Singye Dorji said that the rim of the mountains form a security blanket for him, as everything within the range of these mountains makes sense and has values that you can live by. He spoke about the importance of food and made an interesting comparison of the shape of a momo with the Himalayan landscape with a peak and its fall. They talked of how the Himalayas continue to provide different stories for writers, ranging from personal stories, to the geographical story of two continents colliding in tectonic coitus, to the political and religious stories.

Next up was a session on women writers by Namita Gokhale and Kishwar Desai introduced by Kunzang Choden who spoke of the significance of the feminine in the mountains that have a lot of feminine energies and deities. Namita Gokhale said that while she began writing thinking that men and women write similarly and resisted the label of a woman writer, at some point she realized that there was a voice inside her that took notice of things in a way that was different from men. Her first book Paro was written in first person feminine and most of her books carry the voices of different women protagonists. She read from a story called ‘Chronicles of Exile’, which is about Gandhari told from the perspective of her maid accompanying her from Kandahar to Hastinapur.

Kishwar Desai spoke of how she wrote about female feticide in her novel ‘Witness the Night’, inspired from stories of women that she met through her career. She said that she wrote it in extreme anger in just a month and wasn’t sure how the book will be received but the fact that her character’s voice traveled across cultures was a great achievement. She did a reading from her new book ‘Origins of Love’, which is about the fertility industry.

After breaking for a quick lunch, the audience came back to a riddle posed by Tshering Tashi, the speaker of the next session on unclimbed mountains. His co-panelist Siok Sian Dorji told the audience that Bhutan has the distinction of having the highest unclimbed peak in the world and with the ban on mountaineering in 1987 it is not impossible to accomplish this task anymore. Tshering Tashi showed pictures of Gankar Punsum (White peak of the three brothers) – the highest peak. After the last mountaineers tried to scale the peak in 1986, the Layaps from the region pleaded the government to ban climbing because they felt that it disrespected their deities.
They discussed why climbing mountains in Bhutan is very difficult and how the people in Bhutan live on a different clock which is not comprehensible to the western mind, which has every moment as structured time. Bhutan is an unmapped, uncharted space with no guides or paths to help mountaineers. While discussing whether it is a good idea to ban mountaineering, the panelists as well as members of the audience stressed on the Bhutanese philosophy of climbing a mountain as a form of reverence and to achieve a certain state of mind and not as a physical achievement. They felt that mountaineering is a western concept as opposed to the Bhutanese concept of mentally and spiritually reaching that state of mind.

This was followed by the launch of Keunga Tenzin’s second novel, ‘Kuenden the Valiant Son’ by Kishwar Desai, Namita Gokhale and Sharmila Tagore.
At the same time, there was a brainstorming session on at the Nehru Wanchuck Center on the relationship between media and policy making among. Some of the very well known names from the Bhutanese and Indian media joined in. Tshering Tobgay, the leader of opposition talked about the multiplying effect of new media and how it can be a very worthwhile tool. Many of the panelist disagreed with the fact that media can actually affect policy making in a state but everyone agreed that with Bhutan’s newfound democracy, the media has a very very crucial role to play in the shaping of Bhutan’s future.

After this, writers Ali Sethi, Shazia Omar, Ashok Ferrey, Sujeev Shakya, Kunzang Choden representing different sides of the borders read from their works and addressed the question of identity, nation and narrative, and what really defines their stories.

The day moved to a lighter note as the audience tuned into a conversation on music between Vishal Bhardwaj, Rekha Bhardwaj, Ugyen Pande and Sonam Dorji. Sathya Saran asked all of them how music bridges the gap between the popular and the elite, between classical and contemporary traditions. All of them agreed that classical music forms the base for all music and how the audience had started accepting the merging of classical with the contemporary. Sonam Dorji spoke of traditional Bhutanese music and sang a small bit from the central and western parts of Bhutan classical music while Ugyen Pande spoke of how he was influenced by Bollywood music while he was growing up and sang one of his compositions to show how it has a pinch of Bollywood taste. Not satisfied with a few notes, the audience requested Rekha Bhardwaj to end the evening with her song ‘Namak Isk Ka’, which received much appreciation and applause.

The last session of the day aptly titled, ‘Blessings of Bhutan’ summed up the festival as Dr Karma Phuntsho and Sonam Jatso with Swati Chopra talked of Buddhism and how it guides every aspect of Bhutanese life from routine activities to national policies. They talked of Buddhism as an educational system that makes you look inward, at the psychology of the ordinary mind and how that mental state can slowly be transformed. The development policy of Bhutan follows the Buddhist philosophy of the middle path, achieving a balance between roots and wings, tradition and modernity. Dr Karma Phuntsho ended the session with inspiring verses in Sanskrit, Tibetan and English ending the festival on a note which really did close by showering blessings.

Finally, festival director Pramod KG ended the day of sessions with a speech on the debates, discussions, the ideas generated at the festival, and the participants from different parts of the world who came together to celebrate literature. On behalf of himself and his co-director Namita Gokhale, he thanked HM Queen Mother Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck, Pavan Varma and everyone who helped make the festival a success.

Ambassador Pavan Varma also expressed his gratitude towards everyone who worked towards Mountain echoes achieving new grounds and becoming the crucible of ideas, creativity and interaction.

The festival drew to an end but the authors, audience and organizers were all already gearing up for the next edition.  

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